On 7 December, this textile know-how was granted this official mark of quality and origin assigned by the National Institute of Industrial Property. Before them, there are 5 geographical indications such as the granite of Brittany or the porcelain of Limoges.
The tapestry of Aubusson (Creuse) joins this Friday, December 7th the headquarters of Liffol (Vosges), the granite of Brittany, the porcelain of Limoges, the stone of Burgundy and the garnet of Perpignan …
In other words, this five-century aircraft becomes the sixth product manufactured to benefit from a "geographical indication" (GI) approved by the National Institute of Industrial Property (Inpi). No jealous for the Aubusson carpet, which also gets this Friday, the seventh IG. These are the first two textile indications.
It is the 2015 consumer law that created these geographical indications for manufactured products. Greater demand for local know-how, while only agricultural products benefit from a protected geographical indication (PGI).
An "indication of origin" also for manufactured products
UNESCO cultural heritage
The Aubusson tapestry has been inscribed since 2009 in the "Intangible cultural heritage of the humanity" of the UNESCO. Why immaterial? " Because UNESCO recognizes gestures Explains Géraldine Cauchy, director of Lainamac. This association of Felletin (Creuse) is a network of professionals in wool and natural textile fibers that want to structure the textile industry. It is also the largest training center for the wool industry in Europe.
" Initially, the approach came from the Aubusson sub-prefecture that decided to meet all the companies, says Géraldine Cauchy. Very quickly, there was adherence to the project around Lainamac. "
The Aubusson tapestry is hand-woven on what is called a "smooth low" and covers, according to Inpi, a set of techniques, professions and know-how specific to this historic center. " It is an ecosystem, the director of Lainamac insists. One of the last textile poles with an entire industry. "
The sector covers a dozen companies and a public institution of commercial interest with about sixty jobs and a turnover of around 3.2 million euros. Half of the production is exported.
For its part, the carpet covers eight companies representing more than 70 jobs with a turnover of over 2 million euros. Here too, 50% of production goes abroad.
It should be noted, however, that all companies, whether they are tapestries or carpets, have not yet participated in the GI process.
Because this desire for recognition of geographical indication. " Companies believe that this sign of quality can be an element of commercial strength, differentiation, said Géraldine Cauchy. Furthermore, it is a legal instrument that can better combat counterfeits. "
Laguiole wants to recover his name
As for any other geographical indication, it is necessary that the artisans representing a sector meet and agree a series of specifications that will be sent to Inpi through an association. A public inquiry is then opened during which consumers, other producers or local authorities are questioned. The candidates of artisans may have to change their specifications …
In case of acceptance by Inpi, it is therefore necessary that the association that carries the project requires an external organization for the audit of all the professional candidates.
Charentais and Marseille soap
To date, about 50 contacts and requests for information on geographical indications have been made in Inpi, including the santon de Provence, for example. Several files are under investigation, including the famous Charente slippers or Marseille soap