- Paige Neal-Holder, Kamilah McInnis
- BBC Newsbeat
May 9, 2023
Photo credit, YVONNE E. MAXWELL
Users are concerned about the ingredients in hair straighteners, but the science is inconclusive on this.
But today, more than 100 lawsuits have been filed in the United States against companies that manufacture some of these products.
L’Oreal’s US subsidiary and owners of other hair relaxers are named in the lawsuits – brands include Dark & Lovely, ORS Olive Oil and Motions.
The judges argue that the products contain dangerous chemicals that can cause cancer and other health problems. They also claim that the companies knew about it, but marketed and sold the products anyway.
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They investigated the possible link between the use of relaxers and uterine cancer.
Nearly 34,000 participants were followed for more than ten years. During this period, 378 cases of uterine cancer were diagnosed. The study found that people who used the relaxers more than four times a year had a slightly higher risk of developing the condition.
The researchers “estimated that 1.64% of women who had never used a hair straightener would develop uterine cancer before the age of 70,” explains the study’s lead author, Alexandra White.
“But for frequent users, this risk rises to 4.05%,” she adds.
Further research is needed
Karis Betts, head of health information at Cancer Research UK, however, believes that while the study suggests a link, it is not clear whether hair straightening products can actually increase the risk of developing cancer. of the uterus or, if so, to what extent this risk may be higher.
“At present, there is insufficient scientific evidence to show that these products cause cancer,” says Betts.
“Further research is needed in larger, higher quality studies to confirm a link. It is important to remember that although the risk of cancer from hair straightening was higher, it would likely be lower than known causes of cancer, such as age, smoking and obesity.”
Karis Betts adds that uterine cancer is relatively rare, so even if the risk were slightly higher, it would not be common.
- Relaxers are creams or lotions formulated with chemicals to straighten frizzy and frizzy hair.
- They break disulphide bridges – a type of chemical bond present inside hair fibers – and restructure the structures of curly or frizzy hair.
- There are different types of relaxers: bleaching relaxers use sodium hydroxide, non-bleaching relaxers use other active ingredients such as calcium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide, there are also those that use ammonium thioglycolate.
- They are permanent, but the new hair that is born and grows retains its natural texture.
- Some companies offer alternative products for women with textured hair.
Photo credit, FOSTER LAW LLC
James Foster, a personal injury lawyer, defends women who have filed suits against L’Oréal and other companies.
Scientists have failed to identify a specific chemical or ingredient that may be harmful in relaxer formulas. They said further research was needed.
But the lawsuits also claim that other health problems, such as fibroids, were caused by the products.
These benign tumors of the uterus can cause heavy menstrual flow and intense cramping.
A woman named in the court proceedings claims to have undergone a hysterectomy (partial or total removal of the uterus) because of her condition.
She is one of about 20 clients represented by James Foster, a personal injury lawyer, and his firm.
“She ended up being one of the models on the cover of the packaging for one of the products she used. She really believed in those products and was willing to put herself on their packaging,” she explains. he.
“Now that the case has come to light, this client has been very affected. She is very young and it is obvious that it has been very difficult for her.”
Some believe that the chemicals in some relaxers can interfere with hormone production in the body.
Some types of cancer are sensitive to hormones, such as ovarian, breast and uterine cancers.
In 2021, a study published in the Carcinogenesis Journal from the University of Oxford in the UK claims that heavy use of hair relaxers containing soda may be associated with an increased risk of a specific type of breast cancer. .
However, the study says more research needs to be done to make sure this is indeed the case.
The study prompted activist group Level Up to launch the #NoMoreLyes petition in 2021, calling on major brands such as L’Oréal to stop using the ingredient.
Level Up says it still hasn’t received a response from the company to a request for more detailed information about the safety of the chemicals in its hair relaxers.
The group has just published an open letter to L’Oréal, asking it to withdraw products containing bleach from sale and to invest more in research.
This letter was also signed by 10 parliamentarians.
“I feel like we are being deliberately ignored, says activist Ikamara Larasi. With an open letter, I hope they will take the time to respond.”
“I’m frustrated,” she adds. “I think people have a ‘fine, don’t use [de défrisants] so’, but there are so many reasons why people choose to straighten their hair that it’s just not a useful argument.”
A spokesperson for L’Oreal in the UK told the BBC that although the cosmetics industry group does not import or sell Dark & Lovely products in the country, it has responded to all inquiries from British consumers it has received. “We maintain the highest safety standards for all our products,” says L’Oréal.
The company adds that its top priority is “the health, well-being and safety” of all its consumers, and that its products have undergone rigorous scientific evaluation of their safety by experts who also ensure that they strictly comply with all applicable regulations in all markets in which it operates. She believes that the lawsuits against her “have no legal basis”.
The BBC’s ‘If You Don’t Know’ podcast also contacted Godrej SON Holdings Inc and Dabur International Ltd, two companies that also make hair-relaxing chemicals, which are named in the lawsuits, but did not did not respond to our requests for comment.
In Brazil, to find out if a hair straightening product is safe, the National Health Surveillance Agency (Anvisa) recommends that consumers check the product’s packaging to see if it contains the Authorization to Operate (AFE) and the file number (product registration number) of the company. The consultation can be done on the Anvisa website.
Straighteners without registration are irregular, according to Anvisa, since all straighteners, including those that are imported, must be registered.