Dusseldorf The world is a village – and almost everywhere there are culinary ambassadors. The Wiener schnitzel is one of them. You have not had to travel to the Austrian capital to enjoy the breaded delicacy.
Many German restaurants serve the meat dish – but only a few as it is for a “real Viennese”.
Also, who ordered Kaiserschmarrn or Tafelspitz, gets in this country often only a well-intentioned imitation of those two meals, which one knows from the Austrian holidays.
Tom Riederer, Max Stiegl and Johann Lafer – the three top chefs from Austria know what matters when preparing the classics.
The Handelsblatt have told them, where in the Federal Republic one gets the Austrian “Schmankerl” on the plate – genuine and “just like dahoam”.
Schmankerl 1: The Wiener schnitzel
A short-fibred piece of meat from the upper side of the veal, a maximum of six millimeters thick, baked in a breadcrumbs of crusted roll crust and fried in clarified butter – that's the way it has to be, the “real Viennese”.
Exactly one of these, says Max Stiegl, can be found in Eater's Inn in Cologne. The chef with three toques – the “hoods” awarded by the restaurant guide Gault-Millau – and owner of the restaurant Gut Purbach on Lake Neusiedl in Austria, has the Cologne “Platzerl zum Wohlfühlen” in his heart closed. Especially on Sundays, because there is Schnitzeltag in Essers. “The family gets the veal for their Schnitzel extra from Pöllau in Eastern Styria,” enthuses Stiegel, who is known in Germany by his appearance in the cooking show “Kitchen Impossible” on the private channel Vox.
Even Tom Riederer from the southern Styrian Sankt Andrä in Sausal recommends Schnitzel lovers a Cologne address. “I ate the best Schnitzel in Germany at the Grubers,” says the three-crown chef, who has converted an old parsonage into a top-class restaurant and hotel in his homeland. in the Gruber's Restaurant In addition to the “real Viennese”, he also found the right side dish: potato-cucumber salad.
“Refined with a dash of Styrian pumpkin seed oil, it tastes almost like home,” enthuses Riederer. No wonder – in the Grubers boils a native Austrian. For around 20 years, Franz A. Gruber from Salzburg has provided his guests with alpine classics. In fair weather, he asks on the terrace “with Vienna Schanigarten flair” to table.
A banner like a Danube wave
Much fancier you meet for Schnitzelessen in Berlin. in the Borchardt is who goes to show. The restaurant is considered the living room of celebrities, as a dining room for politicians. For Johann Lafer, one thing is above all: “The best German address for a Wiener Schnitzel”.
The internationally renowned star chef from southeastern Styria has been working in Germany for over 40 years and is known, among other things, for his cookbooks and TV appearances in “Die Küchenschlacht”, “Kerner kocht” and “Lafer, Lichter, lecker”. In Borchardt especially the “Panier” vote, so Lafer.
“When roasting, the butter must smooch evenly over the piece of meat,” explains the top chef. Only then can small air bubbles form and the breading rise. “On the plate, the breadcrumbs must look like a golden brown Danube wave,” says Lafer.
Schmankerl 2: The Tafelspitz
Often shunned by the Wiener Schnitzel, but still not indispensable in Austrian cuisine is Tafelspitz. The beef dish is traditionally served with roast potatoes and breadcrumbs. The proper preparation of the side dishes is at least as important as the meat quality.
In order to get to know “Tafelspitz and his work”, one must come to Austria as a cook, says Max Stiegl. He therefore has the best Tafelspitz in Germany in the Hamburg restaurant Tschebull with chef Alexander Tschebull, who started his career in the Viennese gastronomy business “Zu den drei Husaren”. In Chebulls, there are apple crumbs instead of breadcrumbs, but the meat is “buttery and sensational”.
With crushed rösti, please!
Also in the restaurant Lohninger in Frankfurt am Main is a native of Austria on the stove. Since 2010, Mario Lohninger from Leogang in Salzburg has been serving his guests with food from all over the world including Austrian specialties. Under the heading “From Home” you will also find Tafelspitz on the menu – according to Johann Lafer, the best in Germany.
Especially the roast potatoes have done to him. The potatoes are as it should be: “Inside mushy and crispy on the outside,” says Lafer. Important: Under no circumstances should the roast potatoes come as slices on the plate. “The potatoes have to be finely grated,” says Lafer. “You must look like a crushed rösti.”
Schmankerl 3: The Kaiserschmarrn
If you want to taste a piece of sweet Austria, you can not miss Kaiserschmarrn. And according to Max Stiegl, he is best eaten where he comes from – namely in the Alpine republic itself. He has not yet found a “genuine Kaiserschmarrn with plum roaster and vanilla ice cream”, as from “Granny's Kuchl”. But he recommends a very special variant of the – actually warm – dessert: Geeister Kaiserschmarren of Schuhbeck in Munich,
The star and TV chef Alfons Schuhbeck from Bavaria has reinterpreted the fluffy classic – and made a dessert ice cream out of it. Although this has little to do with the traditional recipe, only the look is right. Not bad, thinks Max Stiegl, because: “Better a slightly different, but good, Kaiserschmarrn in cold than a bad in warm.”
Fluffy to the end
The treachery of the warm dough specialty: If the junk comes fresh from the oven, it is fluffy and loose, “even with the wrong recipe,” explains Johann Lafer. After a few minutes, however, he collapses rather quickly, the “fluffy, golden-yellow Kaiserschmarrn” become “flat pieces of dough, which hardly have anything to do with the traditional dish”.
That would not happen to Lohninger in Frankfurt and Tschebull in Hamburg. Both would have a “grandiose recipe”, in which the dough remains fluffy, as long as you have something left on the plate, says Lafer. There are plum roaster – no plum jam – and vanilla ice cream. As befits a menu in Austrian.
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