When I was a child, my grandmother kept a clean metal spoon in the fridge. If his allergies acted – or whenever he felt his eyes were swollen – he would take out the cold spoon and roll his rounded back under his eyes, for 30 seconds each. It's a cheap and easy beauty trick that I regularly use myself these days. It is also a comparable version of yesterday's today's jade roll mania.
For the unfamiliar, a jade roll is more or less what it looks like: an apparatus similar to a hand-shaped paint roller with a jade stone cylinder at one end. It is said that jade rolls were part of the beauty routine among the Chinese elites since the Qing dynasty, which began in the early seventeenth century; people who associate stones with certain properties claim that jade has a special ability to heal and soothe.
Flash forward for several hundred years: in 2018, jade rollers were all the rage on Instagram, loved by beauty bloggers all over the world. Their popularity can be attributed to their position at the intersection of two trends: growing interest in products for the wellbeing of oneself and those "natural". You can purchase a jade roll for $ 12.99 on Amazon.com or $ 40 on Sephora; if you prefer rose quartz, this is also an option – for $ 45 on Goop.com.
Some evangelists claim that the rotational movement of the stone on the face can help to free the toxins and reduce the swelling, while others say much higher results: the regular use of the jade rollers can erase wrinkles, stimulate collagen, tighten the pores and potentially improve the inflammatory conditions of the skin. They are often advertised as an "anti-aging" tool (a phrase that some circles of beauty, such as the Allure magazine, have banned).
In fact, explains Suzanne Friedler, Manhattan dermatologist, the jade rollers are as effective as any facial massage if performed correctly. "Every time you massage tissues, you increase circulation.Your skin may look brighter, brighter, perhaps more contoured and less swollen," he says. "But if you're looking for a substantial change, this will not happen with the jade roll, and it has no effect on inflammatory conditions like eczema or psoriasis."
Susan Bard, a dermatologist with Manhattan Dermatology specialists, says people need to be cautious about the potential danger of jade rollers transmitting bacteria – if you do not disinfect the roller, you risk doing more harm than good – and too much aggressive use. "The cold of the stone can certainly help to reduce the swelling.But the disadvantages are if you rub too energetically, you can actually aggravate the acne or create irritation." She agrees that the use of a roller regularly it can have some benefits for the skin, but adds that it is not the same jade that is the special ingredient.
The heart keeps the blood moving through the circulatory system in a normal clip. But the fluid of the lymphatic system – which contains white blood cells and plays an important role in protecting the body from germs and diseases – flows more slowly and can be helped by hand. Massaging in any form can reduce swelling by helping to move the retained fluid (known as lymph) from the areas where it has been blocked, says Bard. Meanwhile, cold, from a stone or even a metal spoon, can reduce inflammation by causing blood vessels to contract.
Elizabeth Taylor, owner and principal beautician of New York's True Beauty Brooklyn, regularly incorporates manual lymphatic drainage into her face treatments. There are over 300 lymph nodes (essentially, control points where the lymph is filtered for infection) in the face and neck, says Taylor; facial massage can help to move the lymph and drain it away. In turn, this can make your face more contoured and give your skin that sought after glow.
The good news is that you can even do it by yourself: using a face oil, a serum or a silky face, pinch your thumb and forefinger together and, starting from the center of your chin, gently push backwards along your jaw a few times. . Then, place the ring finger close to the inner eye and, with slight pressure, trace a semicircle under the eyes, up to the temples. Finally, place the tips of all 10 fingers in the middle of the forehead and pull the fingers out. At the very least, the massage itself looks fantastic.
If you see an extra glow or a reduced swelling, do not get too excited. "These are all temporary results," says Friedler. Facial massage – with a stone or other – is not a magic cure for all skin problems. He claims that the use of a jade roller helps to stimulate collagen – the main structural protein in the skin – the truth is missing: according to Friedler, the only way to do this is to traumatize the collagen with laser treatments, acidic or retinoid peels.
Bard provided an additional warning for anyone jumping on the "natural skin care" cart. "There are natural things that have benefits, like aloe, and there are natural things that you would not want to put on your face – like poison ivy. Just because something has existed for a million years does not mean that is the best option.The scientifically proven products are always the best to go with. "