The Art of Japanese Dried Fish: A Culinary Tradition

Japan’s culinary landscape is renowned for its reverence for seafood, and a unique facet of this tradition lies in the art of himono – dried fish. This method of preservation and flavor enhancement has been practiced for centuries, transforming a variety of catches into delectable delicacies. From simple snacks to essential ingredients in complex dishes, dried fish plays a significant role in Japanese cuisine.

What is Himono?

Himono refers to fish that has been cut open, either from the belly or backbone, to facilitate drying. This process not only preserves the fish but also concentrates its flavors, resulting in a uniquely umami-rich experience. Several distinct styles of himono cater to different tastes and culinary applications.

Types of Himono

Hiraki

The hiraki style is commonly used for aji (Japanese jack mackerel), sanma (Pacific saury), hokke (Atka mackerel), and karei (righteye flounder). The fish is often butterflied, with the head and spine sometimes removed to aid in drying. When prepared using the ichiyaboshi method – drying overnight – the fish retains a higher moisture content, resulting in a plump and tender texture.

Mirinboshi

Resembling jerky, mirinboshi involves filleting fish like saba (mackerel), iwashi (sardines), and kawahagi (filefish), marinating them in soy sauce and mirin (sweet rice wine), and then drying them. Often sprinkled with white sesame seeds, these long, thin strips are lightly grilled and are particularly popular with children due to their sweet flavor.

Maruboshi

In the maruboshi style, fish such as sanma (Pacific saury), iwashi (sardines), kibinago (silver-stripe round herring), and shishamo (smelt) are dried whole, without removing the innards. A variation, known as mezashi, involves skewering little whole fish like iwashi through the eye sockets for drying.

Niboshi (Iriko)

Niboshi, also called iriko, are made from small Japanese anchovies (katakuchi-iwashi) that are simmered and dried. They are a crucial ingredient in dashi stock, providing a rich umami flavor. Niboshi ramen, utilizing this dashi as a base, has a dedicated following.

Migaki-nishin

Migaki-nishin utilizes Pacific herring (nishin) that is filleted and dried. Before cooking, the dried fish is rehydrated by soaking in water for an extended period. It is a key component of nishin soba, a noodle dish popular in Kyoto and Hokkaido, and is also used in konbumaki (kelp rolls).

Bōdara

Bōdara is a type of himono primarily produced in Hokkaido and Tohoku, using cod (tara). Due to cod’s rapid deterioration, it’s traditionally plain-dried for several months in the cold climate. The resulting product is so hard it’s been said to be able to hammer a nail, requiring a week-long soak to rehydrate. A softer variation, tōkan, is freeze-dried.

Saketoba

Originating from the Ainu word tupa, meaning salmon, saketoba is a traditional Hokkaido food made by cutting salmon into long, thin strips and drying them. It’s a popular accompaniment to alcoholic beverages.

Surume

Surume refers to dried Japanese common squid (surume-ika) and has come to encompass all types of dried squid. Sold whole or cut into pieces, it’s a common snack enjoyed with alcohol. Matsumaezuke, a dish from Hokkaido featuring thinly sliced surume and konbu (kelp), marinated in soy sauce, is another popular preparation.

A Timeless Tradition

The tradition of himono embodies Japan’s resourcefulness and dedication to preserving the flavors of the sea. These dried fish preparations offer a diverse range of tastes and textures, continuing to delight palates and enrich Japanese cuisine today.