Chef Pascal Devalkeneer has completed a dramatic transformation of his two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Chalet, shedding the pressure of the Michelin guide and adopting a raw, instinctive style of cooking. Following a major renovation and a shift away from a solo-run kitchen, Devalkeneer reopened the establishment alongside returning sous-chef Simon Boyer and a revamped team.
A New Era and a Shift Away from the Michelin Race
For fourteen years after securing its second Michelin star in 2012, Le Chalet operated under the relentless pursuit of a third. Chef Pascal Devalkeneer admits that he initially wanted to push straight through to top-tier accolades while caught up in the euphoria of the kitchen’s success. However, that race is officially over.
Devalkeneer states that he no longer cares how Michelin receives his restaurant’s new direction and refuses to build his business around the guide’s criteria. Operating with a clean slate, he explains that he wants to cook in a way that aligns with the years he has left, shedding the intense pressure of the star hunt to focus entirely on his craft.
Simplifying the Plate and Prioritizing Pure Flavor
The culinary philosophy inside the kitchen has undergone a deliberate stripping down of unnecessary theatricality. Devalkeneer observes that modern gastronomy has become an over-analyzed spectacle, noting that diners frequently know dishes and presentations down to the finest detail via the internet before they even step through the door.
To combat this loss of spontaneity, the new menu features a looser, more thorough presentation that prioritizes directness and nuance. Current offerings include seasonal risottos, French paimpol beans with lobster, and vegetable-forward dishes centered on pumpkin and quince. Devalkeneer emphasizes that flavor remains his ultimate starting point, utilizing products that meet strict selection criteria.
Transitioning Away from a One-Man Operation
After 27 years of making every major decision alone, Devalkeneer has transitioned Le Chalet into a collaborative team effort. The catalyst for this structural change was the return of sous-chef Simon Boyer, who rejoined the kitchen after a four-year absence. Boyer’s wife, Ivana, has also joined the front-of-house team as zaalchef alongside familiar staff member Tara.
Devalkeneer notes that executing this freer, more nuanced culinary style requires a team that intimately understands the underlying philosophy. By distributing operational weight among trusted colleagues, the chef aims to share the professional burden rather than carrying it entirely on his own shoulders.
Redesigning the Institution
The physical transformation of the restaurant mirrors its culinary rebirth. Architects Nelly Smets and François Marcq spearheaded the major interior overhaul, while artistic duo Martine Feipel and Jean Bechameil constructed a striking ceramic forest surrounding the dining room fireplace.
Local craftsmanship anchors the redesign, featuring tables and chairs built from timber harvested in the nearby Sonian Forest by the Brussels design collective Sonian. A general rehearsal on September 11 brought together the renovation team, friends, and local professionals to celebrate the restaurant’s relaunch with a menu featuring lemon pasta with gamberi rossi and bottarga, followed by wood-grilled squab with corn, figs, and chanterelles.
Worth a look