The Books That Shape a Writer: Gabrielle Hamilton’s Literary Influences
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Gabrielle Hamilton, celebrated chef and author of the memoirs Blood, bones & Butter and Next of Kin, built her renowned career at Prune, the beloved East Village restaurant she operated from 1999 to 2020. however, her creative life extends far beyond the kitchen
John Berger’s “Pig Earth” as a Guide for Food Writing
I’m a writer, to.
Pig Earth
by John Berger
I love Berger‘s “Into Their Labours.” But I would say that “Pig Earth” is the defining text for me. I consistently return to this book as a guide for my food writing. Berger’s approach to food is unique because it isn’t primarily *about* the food itself-it’s a lens through which to examine peasantry, agricultural labor, and class. Even when I’m writing about something as specific as a tomato salad at a particular restaurant or the cheeses at a specialty store, as I did during my time with a column at the New York Times, it’s crucial to keep Berger’s work in mind.
The Enduring Relevance of Berger’s Approach
Food writing frequently enough feels ephemeral-easily consumed and quickly forgotten. To some extent, that’s acceptable. However, Berger’s work possesses a timeless quality. He consistently incorporates food into his narratives, whether it’s brandy, soup, or wine. He details characters collecting walnuts, holding berries, or observes leeks growing under the snow as someone lies dying. he seamlessly integrates food into the fabric of life, elevating it beyond mere sustenance.
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