Pieter Mulier’s Final Alaïa Collection: A Swan Song and a Seem to the Future
Paris Fashion Week witnessed a poignant moment as Pieter Mulier presented his final collection for Maison Alaïa, a present lauded as a “pitch-perfect swan song” before his transition to Versace in July 2026. The Summer-Fall 2026 collection, showcased at the old Cartier Foundation, stripped back fashion theatrics to focus on the core essence of the Alaïa brand, leaving a distinct mark and a clean slate for its next chapter.
A Tribute to Alaïa’s Legacy and the Collective Effort
Mulier’s farewell was not just a display of clothing; it was a celebration of the people behind the brand. Guests were greeted by large digital screens displaying portraits of every Alaïa employee, captured by photographer Keizo Kitajima, emphasizing the collaborative spirit that defined Azzedine Alaïa’s practice. A hardback book featuring these portraits was gifted to attendees, reinforcing the message that collective effort is paramount to creating beautiful clothes.
The Collection: Restraint, Ravishment, and a Return to Roots
The collection itself was characterized by a refined restraint, yet remained undeniably ravishing. Mulier revisited the brand’s iconic silhouettes, beginning with skintight mini dresses reminiscent of the 1980s and 90s – those popularized by Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista – in shades of nude, hazy blue, grey green, and mustard-yellow. These were complemented by contrasting textures in tailoring and outerwear, including a striking velvet green double-breasted coat, also available in black pony hair and leather.
As the show progressed, silhouettes evolved, becoming more voluminous with cascading ruffles on structured wool jackets and strapless dresses. Transparent jersey dresses with croc-effect panels added a modern touch. The collection culminated in a triptych of tailored looks paired with swing-ruffle bottoms, representing a synthesis of Alaïa’s past, present, and a hopeful outlook for its future.
Mulier’s Reflection and a Standing Ovation
Mulier described the collection as a “vocabulary” of his five years at Alaïa, a distillation of what he learned and a gift to his successor. He emphasized a return to the brand’s roots, prioritizing craftsmanship and detail. The show concluded with a standing ovation from a star-studded audience, including Matthieu Blazy of Chanel and Raf Simons of Prada, acknowledging Mulier’s success in creating designs that were both critically acclaimed and commercially viable.
The designer’s departure marks the end of a successful chapter for both Mulier and Alaïa, leaving the fashion world anticipating the next evolution of this iconic house.