Demna’s Debut at Gucci: A Bold New Era of “Energy, Passion, Fun and Sex”

Milan Fashion Week witnessed a seismic shift on Friday, February 27, 2026, as Demna presented his first collection for Gucci. The display, staged in Milan, signaled a dramatic departure from recent Gucci aesthetics, embracing a provocative and sensual style that designer Demna described as embodying “energy, passion, fun, and sex.”

A Provocative Collection

The collection featured daringly short and tight dresses, with Emily Ratajkowski notably adjusting a sequined garment during her walk to maintain coverage. Kate Moss appeared on the runway in a diamante G-string, adding to the show’s provocative atmosphere. The designs contrasted sharply with Demna’s previous inspiration, which included Botticelli’s Renaissance paintings, a connection he explained as a desire to re-establish Gucci’s cultural relevance. He stated that cultural relevance begins with underground culture, not the mainstream.

Rejecting Expectations

Demna preemptively addressed expectations, revealing that he intentionally avoided the predictions – including oversized bomber jackets with monograms – generated by sources like ChatGPT. Instead, he aimed for a visceral and emotional impact. “For 10 years, I tried to impress, and I tried to impress myself,” Demna shared backstage. “At Gucci, I got this sudden rush of emotion. I realized I can create from an emotional space — fashion that triggers emotion and feelings. Either you love it or hate it.”

Gucci’s Need for Reinvention

The appointment of Demna is widely seen as a crucial turning point for Gucci, which has experienced a significant decline in sales in recent years. Sales dropped from over €10 billion in 2022 to approximately €6 billion in 2025 Vogue. This downturn has impacted Kering, Gucci’s parent company, and the wider fashion industry. The optimistic response to Demna’s appointment already showed positive signs, with Kering’s share price rising by 15% following news that Gucci’s sales had fallen less than expected – a 3% decrease in the final quarter of 2025 Vogue.

A History of Boldness

Demna’s approach aligns with Gucci’s most successful eras, characterized by boldness and a willingness to challenge conventions. The provocative designs echo the eras under Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele, both of which successfully integrated fashion into pop culture. The previous creative director, Sabato De Sarno, was criticized for a more conservative approach.

Demna’s Past and Future at Gucci

Demna’s provocative instincts have previously garnered both acclaim and controversy, notably with emotionally charged shows at Balenciaga and advertisements that faced backlash. Whether his tenure at Gucci will be a resounding success or a dramatic misstep remains to be seen, but the debut collection has undoubtedly ignited a conversation and signaled a new, daring direction for the iconic Italian brand.