She was arguably the most famous woman of her time, and Queen Elizabeth II‘s style – though restrained and often conservative – was instantly recognisable.Just as she remained a constant presence during her 70 years on the throne, so did the show-stopping hats and radiant coats of her public appearances, and the tweeds, tartans and headscarves of her off-duty look.
her outfits were meticulously designed – both with practicality in mind, and often with subliminal messages of soft power, diplomacy and stability.
A new exhibition at The King’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace – showcasing items from the 10 decades of Queen Elizabeth’s life and marking the centenary of her birth – throws light on how Britain changed during her reign.Of the 200 pieces set too be featured – including clothing, jewelry, hats, shoes and accessories – we have selected five of
How the Queen’s style became a global phenomenon
Table of Contents
The Queen’s wardrobe was about far more than just fashion – it was a carefully constructed tool of diplomacy and national identity. From her early years as a princess to her reign as monarch, her clothing choices were steeped in meaning, and continue to influence designers today.
Early influences and a sense of duty
Growing up in the 1930s, the young Princess Elizabeth’s style was shaped by the prevailing trends of the time – simple, elegant dresses and practical outerwear. But even then, her clothing carried a sense of duty. “She was always aware of the symbolic power of what she wore,” says fashion historian Caroline de guitaut. “She understood that as a future head of state, her appearance woudl be scrutinised and interpreted.”
During World War II, the Queen’s style became even more understated, reflecting the austerity of the era. She frequently enough wore practical, utilitarian clothing, and famously learned to repair her own car, even serving as a mechanic during the war. This demonstrated a solidarity with the British people and reinforced her image as a woman of substance.
A signature style emerges
In the post-war years, the Queen’s style began to evolve, but remained firmly rooted in classic British tailoring and feminine silhouettes. She favoured pastel colours, floral prints, and simple, elegant dresses.Her signature look – a tailored coat, a matching hat, and sensible shoes – became instantly recognisable around the world.
“She created a very specific aesthetic that was both timeless and reassuring,” says Kwei. “It was about projecting an image of stability and continuity.” and weaved into the outfit’s feminine cut and low-key tones are connotations of “stability, dependence, soft power”, she says. “It’s ‘I’m in charge’, without being too loud about it.”
It is not obviously trendsetting, says Kwei. “If she was chasing fashion trends, we would think she was blown away by every wind,” she adds, suggesting its customary look helps to convey the sense of stability. But the look came to be understood as quintessentially British style. Its influence on contemporary designers is huge, says exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut, noting luxury Italian brand Miu Miu’s 2024 Balmoral collection, which reimagined the Queen’s tartan kilts.
The Coronation dress
[Image of Queen Fashion illustration – includes image of the Queen’s golden embroidered Coronation dress, which features short]
In 1957 Elizabeth II wore an elaborate sleeveless green gown, also designed by Hartnell for a state banquet thrown for US President Dwight Eisenhower at the British Embassy in Washington DC.
“She was on the world stage for 70 years and it’s quite notable to have just always made the right choice in terms of clothing,” says de Guitaut.
But in terms of the particular message the Queen was trying to convey, this dress is divisive.
“It’s absolutely lovely,” says de Guitaut, “but I can’t quite see an overt reference in it to be honest.”
Whatever the intention, we know it was worn during a US visit intended to strengthen transatlantic ties during the Cold War.
As a magnificent piece of design, Kwei suggests the Queen was looking to make a statement about britain. Its “apple crisp green” could be a nod to America, she adds.
“From New York being known as ‘The Big apple’ right through to the traditional place the ‘American Pie’ holds in American culture, apples have become synonymous with all things classically American.”
The dress says “‘I’m Britain’s sovereign, this is us, but I’m also nodding to you'”, says Kwei.
Author and royal fashion commentator Elizabeth Holmes points out that early on in the queen’s reign, she used her clothing to “establish herself in a new way, a glamorous young woman on a global stage dominated by men”.
The pieces designed by Hartnell, often with a fitted waist and full skirt, “accentuated her femininity, rather than attempting to mask or hide it”, she adds.
The blue gown and bolero jacket
Queen Elizabeth II’s Style Evolution: A Look Back
BBC/Jon Stokes
queen Elizabeth II’s reign spanned decades, and her style evolved with it. From a young princess to a steadfast monarch, her fashion choices were frequently enough subtle yet impactful, reflecting both personal taste and the changing times.
Early Years: Wartime Utility and Post-War Elegance
During World War II, the Queen, then Princess elizabeth, adopted a practical and patriotic wardrobe. Clothing was subject to rationing, and her outfits emphasized functionality. She often wore tailored suits and modest dresses, reflecting the spirit of national unity. After the war,a new era of elegance emerged. Her wedding dress in 1947, designed by Norman Hartnell, was a symbol of hope and renewal, featuring intricate embroidery and a classic silhouette.
The 1950s and 60s: Defining a Royal Style
The 1950s saw the queen embrace a more defined royal style. She favored feminine dresses, often with cinched waists and full skirts, paired with matching hats and gloves. This decade established many of the hallmarks of her look: a preference for pastel colors,elegant silhouettes,and coordinated accessories. The 1960s brought subtle shifts, with slightly shorter hemlines and the introduction of bolder colors, though she always maintained a sense of decorum.
Later Years: Color, Comfort, and Consistency
In her later years, the Queen became known for her vibrant, block colors. This wasn’t simply a matter of preference; it was a practical choice. Bright colors made her easily visible in crowds.She also prioritized comfort,often opting for simple,well-cut dresses and sensible shoes. Her signature style included a matching hat, gloves, and handbag. She consistently wore outfits that were appropriate for the occasion, demonstrating respect for tradition and protocol.
Accessories: Hats, Handbags, and Brooches
No discussion of the Queen’s style is complete without mentioning her accessories. Her hats were legendary, often coordinating perfectly with her outfits and serving as a visual statement. She carried a handbag from Launer London for decades, and it reportedly contained items like lipstick, reading glasses, and mints. Her brooches were often chosen to hold symbolic meaning, offering subtle nods to events or people she was honoring.
A Lasting Legacy
Queen Elizabeth II’s style wasn’t about following trends; it was about creating a timeless and dignified image. Her fashion choices reflected her role as a symbol of stability and continuity. She demonstrated that style could be both elegant and practical, and her influence on fashion will be felt for generations to come.
Worth a look