In a column for NYT Cooking published on Nov. 12, 2026, Tanya Sichynsky argues that a successful vegetarian Thanksgiving centerpiece must be a labor of love, a showstopping visual, and an interactive focal point for the holiday table.
The centerpiece in question is a stuffed pumpkin modeled after ghapama, a traditional Armenian winter holiday dish. Variations of the roasted squash are often lacquered in honey and filled with rice, nuts, and dried fruits like apricots and cherries, NYT Cooking reported.
Sichynsky wanted a more savory anchor for the holiday feast, drawing inspiration from neighboring Iran and the Levant. Elements of adas polo, which features lentils and dried fruit, and mujadara, topped with fried onions, appear in the recipe to add heft and satiating power.
Leeks, shallots, tart cranberries, and sage round out the filling, while maple syrup replaces honey in the butter glaze that seasons both the pumpkin and the rice. The dish can easily be made vegan by swapping butter for olive oil, and it is naturally gluten-free.
The column outlines three strict rules for any main dish attempting to replace the traditional turkey on Thanksgiving. First, the dish demands a labor of love that puts the main effort into prepping the pumpkin at the start of cooking.
Second, the finished main must deliver a showstopping visual drama that commands attention at the center of the table. Finally, it requires an interactive element to replicate the traditional carving moment during the holiday meal.
Sichynsky notes that carving the squash allows wedges to rock back onto the platter as steaming rice tumbles out. Guests can then garnish their individual plates from small dishes set at both ends of the table.
Alternative vegetarian centerpieces suggested in the reporting include Alexa Weibel’s vegetarian mushroom Wellington and Khushbu Shah’s saag paneer lasagna. Kay Chun’s stuffed onions and the ombré gratin offer similar theatrical presentations for holiday guests.
Addressing a reader inquiry regarding how to shop and cook for large holiday gatherings of 17 to 22 people, Sichynsky consulted Sam Sifton on his personal feast management. Sifton advised that cooks do not need to scale up their side dishes as extensively as they might think.
“One of the things about Thanksgiving sides for a big party is, you don’t need to scale the recipes up quite so extensively as you think you do,” Sifton told NYT Cooking.
He explained that because a holiday table features many different sides, guests typically take smaller portions of each dish. Doubling a recipe that normally serves six can easily feed close to 20 people when the table is full of other options.
The main dish is modeled after ghapama, a beloved Armenian stuffed pumpkin traditionally served around the winter holidays.
Yes, the dish can easily be adapted for a vegan diet by substituting olive oil for the butter used in the glaze and rice seasoning.
According to Sam Sifton, doubling a recipe that serves six will easily feed close to 20 people when there are plenty of other side dishes on the table.