Irish designer Simone Rocha officially expanded her brand into menswear with her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, debuted at the historic Villa della Pergola in Florence during Pitti Uomo. The debut marks a significant strategic pivot for the designer, who previously focused on women’s ready-to-wear, by translating her signature romantic, Victorian-inspired aesthetic into masculine silhouettes.
Why the move to menswear matters
The expansion represents a formal shift for the Simone Rocha label, which has operated since 2010. According to Vogue Runway, the collection maintains the brand’s core design language—featuring pearls, intricate embroidery, and sheer fabrics—while adapting them for traditional masculine cuts like trench coats, bombers, and tailoring.
By choosing Pitti Uomo as the venue, Rocha aligned her brand with the global epicenter of menswear tailoring. Industry analysts note that this move allows the label to capture a growing market segment that seeks gender-fluid or “soft” masculine clothing. Unlike traditional menswear collections that prioritize rigid construction, Rocha’s debut leans into the juxtaposition of rugged workwear and fragile, decorative elements.
How the collection defines the “Romantic” revolution
The collection’s design philosophy centers on the deconstruction of traditional male uniforms. Rocha utilized leather, heavy canvas, and cotton, but contrasted these materials with delicate lace and signature floral motifs.
Key pieces from the debut included:
- Embellished Outerwear: Traditional flight jackets and trench coats adorned with hand-placed pearls and crystals.
- Tailored Layering: Blazers paired with sheer, ruffled skirts and trousers, challenging standard gendered dress codes.
- Footwear Collaboration: The continuation of the brand’s long-standing partnership with Crocs, featuring elevated, embellished versions of the clogs.
According to The Business of Fashion, the decision to show in Florence provided a necessary context for the clothes, allowing the romanticism of the venue to mirror the intricate detailing of the garments themselves.
What happens next for the brand
With this successful launch, Simone Rocha joins a cohort of designers who are successfully blurring the lines between high-fashion womenswear and accessible menswear. The collection is expected to hit retail partners in early 2025.
For the brand, the challenge will be maintaining the artisanal quality of the pieces as they scale for a wider commercial release. Market experts suggest that the “Rocha man” will likely mirror the existing “Rocha woman”—a consumer who values narrative-driven design over fast-fashion trends. By entering the menswear space, the label secures a foothold in a category that, while competitive, is increasingly open to the avant-garde aesthetic Rocha has spent over a decade perfecting.
Quick Facts: Simone Rocha SS25 Debut
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Location | Villa della Pergola, Florence |
| Event | Pitti Uomo |
| Design Focus | Romanticism, pearls, and deconstructed tailoring |
| Key Partnership | Crocs |