Beyond the Sparkle: The Art and Engineering of Olympic Figure Skating Costumes

The 2026 Milan Cortina Winter Olympics are showcasing not only athletic prowess on the ice but too a dazzling display of artistry in figure skating costumes. These aren’t merely outfits; they are integral to a skater’s performance, blending aesthetics with demanding athletic requirements. Designers like Lisa McKinnon are at the forefront of this fusion, creating garments that tell stories and enhance the overall impact of a routine.

The Collaboration Behind the Design

The creation of an Olympic-level figure skating costume is a collaborative process, typically involving the skater, choreographer, and designer. Lisa McKinnon, who designed costumes for U.S. Skaters Amber Glenn, Alysa Liu, and Isabeau Levito for the 2026 Games, emphasizes that the process varies depending on the individual skater [NBC Los Angeles]. Sometimes, a color or general vibe is predetermined, while other times, the conversation begins more openly. McKinnon typically starts with a rundown of the program’s theme, style, and message before sketching designs inspired by the music [NBC Los Angeles].

From Music to Sketch: The Design Process

For designers like Pat Pearsall, the creative process is deeply personal. Pearsall incorporates meditation into her work, believing that the energy and consciousness of the designer are imbued into the fabric [LA Magazine]. McKinnon also relies heavily on the music, listening repeatedly – often 20 to 30 times – while sketching to understand the rhythm and mood [ESPN]. This allows her to create costumes that support the storytelling of the program.

Engineering on Ice: Functionality and Durability

Figure skating costumes are not simply beautiful; they are engineering feats. They must withstand the physical demands of jumps, spins, and lifts, and adhere to the International Skating Union’s (ISU) dress code, which emphasizes modesty and dignity [ESPN]. Every seam and embellishment must be secure. A high-conclude costume can contain up to 4,000 crystals, all applied by hand, and can weigh between one and two pounds [ESPN]. Designers must carefully balance aesthetics with weight, as heavier costumes can impact a skater’s performance.

Inspiration and Innovation

The 2026 Olympics have showcased a range of inspirations, from Madonna, as seen in Amber Glenn’s “Like a Prayer” inspired dress [NBC Los Angeles], to Lady Gaga, which influenced Alysa Liu’s costume for her revamped free skate program [ESPN]. Designers are increasingly drawing inspiration from couture fashion and utilizing innovative stretchy fabrics to push the boundaries of what’s possible [ESPN].

The Importance of a Secure Fit

Wardrobe malfunctions are a skater’s and designer’s worst nightmare. Designers employ redundancy in closures, using hooks and eyes in addition to zippers, and securing beads with multiple knots to prevent issues during a performance [ESPN]. For pair skaters and ice dancers, coaches often have needle and thread on hand for last-minute repairs, particularly to prevent costumes from riding up during lifts and throws [ESPN].

A Growing Partnership Between Skating and High Fashion

The relationship between figure skating and high fashion continues to strengthen. Vera Wang, a former figure skater herself, has designed costumes for numerous Olympic champions, including Michelle Kwan and Nathan Chen [ESPN]. More recently, designers like Oscar de la Renta have entered the arena, further blurring the lines between sport and couture [ESPN].

a figure skating costume is more than just an outfit; it’s a crucial element of a skater’s performance, enhancing their storytelling and contributing to the overall artistry of the sport. As Lisa McKinnon aptly put it, “Your costume is your armor.” [ESPN]