Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled it’s moast daring jewelry watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking.

Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch.

Initial thoughts

Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an significant (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands.

Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too,as a sort of trend within a trend,as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona,one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires.

A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology

But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tourbillons from Montres Journe.

The no-half-measures approach to this watch required cutting and re-cutting 86 carats of high-grade rubies down to just 25 carats. The production of a watch like this would be a significant financial outlay for any brand.

FP Journe’s Newest Tourbillon is Dripping in Rubies – and It’s surprisingly Sensible

FP Journe has just unveiled a spectacular, ruby-set version of its Tourbillon Souverain, dubbed the “Joaillerie Rubis”. While high-end watchmaking and precious stones are no strangers, the sheer quantity of rubies on this watch is remarkable. The case, dial, and even the tourbillon bridge are lavishly adorned with a total of 726 brilliant-cut rubies, amounting to approximately 26.1 carats.

What sets this watch apart isn’t just the abundance of rubies,but the size of each stone. FP Journe opted for relatively large rubies, averaging 0.036 carats per stone. This contrasts sharply with other heavily gem-set watches. For comparison, Patek Philippe’s fully diamond-set Grandmaster chime is set with 30.16 carats of baguette diamonds, which works out to an average of 0.077 carats per stone. For a more down-to-earth comparison, the average weight of the 222 brilliant-cut diamonds on the brand’s own 40 mm Élégante is only 0.007 carats. With that in mind, the diamond TVJ’s retail price is surprisingly reasonable at CHF726,000 before taxes (about US$900,000).

The many facets of gemstone cuts

Natural stones are generally cut to maximise their value by preserving as much of the original rough as possible and removing flaws.In other words, the stone decides how it gets cut. There’s also the consideration of market demand, with some shapes being more liquid than others. The round brilliant cut, for example, maximises the final weight of octahedral diamond rough, and is the most versatile and liquid shape for a diamond.

There is no better example in watchmaking of this approach than the Graff diamonds Hallucination. During Baselworld 2014, Graff debuted a watch set with 110 carats of fancy coloured diamonds – seemingly cut to maximise the potential value of each individual stone – with a nominal price tag of US$55 million.

Gem setting is difficult and unforgiving, as evidenced by scores of terrible aftermarket attempts. For good results, the cutter and setter must work as a team. It’s even better if the watch’s case is designed to receive stones, like that of the TVJ – which is a full 2 mm wider than the standard TV. Each stone must be cut exactingly, since improperly shaped stones will leave unsightly gaps, or simply won’t fit. And the stakes are high: once material is removed from a stone,it can’t be put back.

The impressively fanned baguettes that fill the lugs.

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FP Journe Tourbillon Souverain Joaillerie Rubis: A Deep Dive

F.P. Journe’s signature titanium blade-spring constant-force device originated in 1983, conceived at the request of swiss collector Eugene Gschwind, who sought to challenge George Daniels. This system also features in the Chronomètre Optimum and Astronomic Souveraine – two of the brand’s most celebrated creations.

The constant force device also produces “natural” jumping seconds – meaning it doesn’t require an additional mechanism to create a jumping seconds hand. Aesthetically pleasing, the jumping seconds hand also simplifies gauging the watch’s accuracy against a reference signal, as the seconds are clearly defined.