The Comfort of the Tin: A Celebration of Beans, Sausages, and Simple Cooking

There’s a distinct pleasure in the convenience of tinned goods, a simplicity that contrasts with the growing trend of from-scratch cooking. While soaking and cooking dried beans offers benefits – reduced packaging, cost savings (a 500g bag of dried beans costing around £2.50 can yield 1.5kg cooked, compared to the similar price of a 400g tin), and the flavorful cooking liquid – the immediacy of a tin is undeniable. That is, unless the ring pull breaks, turning a simple task into a minor quest for a tin opener or a strategically wielded parmesan knife.

Inspired by a Roman Trattoria

This recipe was born from a recent meal at Dal Cordaro, a trattoria near Porta Portese in Rome. The restaurant, known for its hearty, unpretentious fare, served a dish of beans in a rich tomato sauce with poached sausages and escarole that proved particularly memorable. While the artichokes, oxtail stew, and straccetti were all excellent, it was the comforting simplicity of the bean dish that resonated most.

A Familiar Yet Elevated Flavor Profile

The dish evokes a comforting familiarity, reminiscent of both homemade and commercially prepared baked beans, and the hearty satisfaction of a full English breakfast. The key lies in the plump, slightly jellied texture of sausages poached directly in the sauce, a technique that infuses them with flavor. A variety of sausages work well – traditional pork sausages with fennel, those containing rusk for binding, or even vegetarian seitan bratwurst.

Adapting the Recipe

This recipe is remarkably adaptable. Pre-soaked and cooked beans can be substituted for tinned, along with a portion of the cooking broth for added depth of flavor. The core combination of beans, greens, and sausages remains the foundation, but feel free to experiment with different ingredients and seasonings.

Serving Suggestions

While satisfying on its own, this stew is elevated by thick slices of toast, lightly rubbed with garlic and brushed with olive oil or melted butter, perfect for soaking up the flavorful sauce. A simple dessert, like a cherry and ricotta tart or even tinned pineapple, provides a refreshing finish.

Beans with Greens and Sausages

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4 tbsp olive oil
• 4-8 pork or vegetarian sausages
• 1 large onion, peeled and diced
• 1 sprig sage
• 400g tin peeled plum tomatoes, crushed or passed through a food mill
• 1 tsp tomato concentrate
• 1 tsp red chilli flakes
• Salt and black pepper to taste
• 2 x 400g tins borlotti or cannellini beans, drained
• 250g greens – spinach or endive

Instructions

1. In a heavy-based pan or casserole dish, warm 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the sausages and brown on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside.
2. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan, along with the onion. Cook until softened. Add the sage and cook for another minute.
3. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, tomato concentrate, chilli flakes, and a pinch of salt. Simmer for 10 minutes, breaking up any lumps with the back of a spoon.
4. Add a glass of warm water, return the sausages to the pan, and simmer for 20-25 minutes (adjusting the time for vegetarian sausages). Add more water if the sauce becomes too thick.
5. Once the sausages are cooked through, stir in the drained beans and simmer for 5 minutes.
6. Add the greens and stir until wilted. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. Serve immediately with crusty bread.