Columbus-Style Pizza: A Unique Slice of Midwestern History
To residents of Columbus and central Ohio, the thin-crust, square-cut pizza is simply “pizza.” It’s a local staple that, while not as nationally recognized as styles from Chicago, New York, or New Haven, boasts a dedicated following and consistently earns high marks on national pizza lists. This distinct style is gaining traction beyond Ohio, appearing on menus across the Midwest.
What Defines Columbus-Style Pizza?
Columbus-style pizza is characterized by several key features:
- Thin Crust: Dough is rolled out thinly and scored with a roller docker to prevent bubbling during baking.
- Cornmeal: A dusting of cornmeal prevents sticking to stone deck ovens, which are considered vital for even heat distribution and a crisp crust.
- Sweet Sauce & Provolone: The pizza is topped with a sweet sauce and a provolone cheese blend, extending to the edges.
- Pepperoni: Generous portions of pepperoni are a hallmark, with some pizzerias boasting over 100 slices on a large pie.
- Square Cut: Pies are traditionally cut into squares (often closer to rectangles) for easy sharing.
A History Rooted in Italian Immigration
The origins of Columbus-style pizza trace back to Italian immigrants who arrived in the region. Tat Ristorante Di Famiglia, established in 1929, initially served pizza as a snack or appetizer.
Romeo’s, opened a few decades later by Jimmy Massey and Romeo Sirij, is considered the first proper pizzeria in Columbus. Massey, a former Chicago baker, likely drew inspiration from the tavern-style, square-cut pizzas popular in Chicago bars. While Chicago developed multiple pizza styles, Columbus maintained its focus on thin-crust pies.
Family Businesses and Local Suppliers
Columbus’s pizza scene is deeply rooted in family-owned businesses. Early pizzerias relied on DiPaolo Foods (now RDP) for cheese and toppings, which helped standardize pizza-making practices in the region. DiPaolo too innovated by providing cardboard boxes for easier transport and working with Vlasic to offer pre-sliced peppers.
Family ownership continues to be a defining characteristic. Terita’s Pizzeria is now run by its third generation, while Minelli’s is operated by the founder’s son and twin daughters. Even Massey’s, now franchised with 15 locations, remains a family business.
Donatos: A Columbus Original Goes National
Donatos Pizza, founded in 1963 by Jim Grote, played a significant role in popularizing Columbus-style pizza. Grote’s focus on consistency led to innovations like the Peppamatic, a machine that evenly sliced and placed pepperoni “edge to edge.” He even copyrighted the phrase “edge to edge” and successfully sued Pizza Hut for infringement in 1996, winning a $5 million settlement.
After a brief period under McDonald’s ownership, Donatos returned to private ownership and now has over 170 locations in 12 states and a partnership with Red Robin, serving Donatos pizza in over 260 locations. Donatos has also embraced automation, opening a fully automated pizza restaurant at John Glenn Columbus International Airport in partnership with Appetronix.
Evolving Traditions and a Diverse Culinary Scene
While traditional Columbus-style pizza remains popular, the city’s culinary scene is evolving. New pizzerias are incorporating global flavors, such as paneer tikka masala pizza at Moon Pizza and chicken shawarma pie at Auzy’s Pizza &. Chicken, reflecting Columbus’s growing diversity.
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