Demna’s Gucci Debut: A Return to Sensuality and Archetypes
MILAN (AP) — Demna unveiled his first runway collection for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week, presenting a vision rooted in sensuality and a re-examination of classic archetypes. The collection, titled “Primavera” (Italian for “spring”), showcased body-conscious silhouettes and a clear nod to Tom Ford’s impactful era at the Italian fashion house.
A Sensual Palette Cleanser
The show opened with a skin-tight white minidress and muscle T-shirts, emphasizing the human form. Models moved with a confident swagger, embodying what Demna described as a “palette cleanser.” The body-con aesthetic extended to slim trousers and tops for men, and clingy dresses and leggings for women, directly echoing the sex-fueled aesthetic of Tom Ford’s Gucci collections.
Nods to Gucci’s Past and Present
While heavily influenced by Ford’s designs, the collection also included subtle tributes to Alessandro Michele, the previous creative director. A floral gown, a daysuit with a pussybow, and furry slip-on shoes offered a nod to Michele’s aesthetic. Valentino’s creative director, who previously collaborated with Demna during his time at Balenciaga, was present in the front row.
Archetypes and Stereotypes on the Runway
Demna explored archetypes, referencing both the “sciura,” or posh Milanese upper-class women, and the “maranza,” suburban males known for their distinctive style. These figures were represented on the runway, adding a layer of social commentary to the collection. The designer’s vision centered around a sense of pragmatism, aiming for a Gucci that is “lighter, softer, more refined, more elaborate, more emotional, even senseless sometimes.”
Kate Moss and the Finale
Supermodel Kate Moss closed the show in a glittering evening gown featuring a plunging back and a double-G-branded thong. Her sensual walk down the runway punctuated the collection’s theme of unapologetic sensuality.
“Primavera” and Artistic Inspiration
The collection’s title, “Primavera,” also draws inspiration from Sandro Botticelli’s masterpiece housed in Florence’s Uffizi Gallery, a nod to Gucci’s origins in the city and the floral patterns frequently seen in the brand’s designs.
Gucci for the Masses
Demna explicitly distanced himself from intellectualizing his message, stating his desire to move Gucci away from the rarified world of high fashion and towards a more accessible brand. He emphasized a vision of Gucci as a “feeling” rather than an intellectual concept. In line with this, select pieces from the collection were made available for immediate purchase through a see-now, buy-now format.
A Coexistence of Heritage and Fashion
“My vision of Gucci is about the coexistence of heritage and fashion… Gucci only exists when both are in sync,” Demna stated. He envisions his designs as shaping a universe of people, archetypes, and dress codes that will define his creative language for the brand moving forward.
Front Row Stars
The show attracted a star-studded front row, including Paris Hilton, Nicky Hilton, Donatella Versace, and Demi Moore, who arrived with her dog Pilaf.