$30,257 was the figure for which a 1997 Gucci fox coat was sold for on the luxury resale platform 1stDibs last January. Astronomical figure, and also symbolic. It was constant confirmation that, fueled by nostalgia for past aesthetics, fur was back in fashion.
It was not a media exception. That same month, New York hosted the eightieth edition of the Manhattan Vintage Show, one of the largest meetings in the sector.-“the Beyoncé concert of the retro fashion world,” they call it-and the fury for all things fur was palpable.
the organizers spoke of a *fur-a-palooza*.After years of stigmatization, the *vintage* turned my hair back into something not only acceptable, but desirable.
There was a time-not so long ago-when it seemed like an uncomfortable relic. *Gone is the social stigma around wearing animal skins* the headlines now say, from *The Guardian* until *The New York Times*. Analysts, media and consultants relate the phenomenon to the rise of second-hand and aesthetics *boom boom* dethroning discreet luxury on the trend podium.
Until the new generations -those who have been labeled eco-avant-garde, the most concerned about the habitat even though they later leave their pay in Shein-they give their permission. According to an analysis cited in specialized media, google searches for *”vintage fur coats”* have been shot 688% from January 2023, with special push from younger consumers.
Second-hand platforms such as Vestiaire Collective, Vinted, The RealReal and 1stDibs -where sales of these garments have grown by 14%- They speak in unison about this increase in interest.And the same has happened with suede and leather. According to Fortune Business Insight accounts, the global leather goods market was estimated to be around $498.57 billion in 2024, and was projected to will reach 531.07 billion in 2025. That is to say: even in a context of debates about sustainability and alternatives, demand remains strong and expanding.
A turn of consciousness
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It is indeed not that the taboo is diluted, but it does acquire new nuances. at rcategorical insult that encouraged the overturning of paint cans red on everything that looks like a mink -emphasis on ‘seem’, because today synthetic alternatives make it almost unfeasible to distinguish what is real from what is fake with the naked eye-a less restrictive approach follows.
“We are constantly changing and in a fervor for the search for healthy methods and an improvement in our response to build an ethical society format,” says Julio Urralde, coordinator of the Fashion School at IED Madrid.
Instead of the binary logic that for years polarized the debate between the ethical and the aesthetic-real or false, correct or incorrect, synthetic or cruel-a different reading is being proposed from certain sides of the ind
The Return of Fur and Hair: A Complex Conversation
Hair and fur are making a strong comeback in fashion, shaping silhouettes with texture and volume.Brands like Max Mara champion iconic pieces like the teddy coat, while roberto Cavalli, under Fausto Puglisi, integrates faux fur into a vision of modern luxury.
The trend manifests in long, curly, oversize styles and a wide spectrum of colors – from natural tones to bold chromatic expressions. Options range from real fur to innovative alternatives, and even vintage finds, demonstrating a renewed embrace of these materials within the fashion world.
However,this resurgence isn’t without scrutiny. the debate surrounding fur and leather has evolved beyond simple polarization,now focusing on what hair,what skin and what leather is used – and the ethical considerations behind their sourcing.
Handle with tact
Today’s society, where the pet economy has reached $207 billion – with more homes housing pets than children (3 million in Spain alone) – and concerns about microplastics and recycling are paramount, the reluctance to wear a sable coat remains strong.
Over 1.5 million signatures have been collected for the #FurFreeEuropa petition, urging the European Commission to ban the import and sale of fur.A significant 36% of consumers now prioritize animal welfare when choosing brands, and PETA boasts a record 6.5 million members, actively protesting at industry events like the CFDA awards.
Paradoxically, young people are leading this charge. Generation Z,raised amidst climate alerts and online activism,embodies a “something must be done now” mentality influencing their lifestyle and purchasing decisions.
“79% affirm that their food decisions are conditioned by personal values such as sustainability, respect for animals and social justice,” explains Voyer.
“The campaigns against hair and the brands that ban it are part of this change of mentality wider. These actions reflect a sense of responsibility and have a direct impact on how the world evolves – and fashion – as well as in the way people consume according to their beliefs. For brands, it is crucial to remain relevant and desirable while actively driving positive change,” he adds.
Hearst – publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, and Cosmopolitan – recently joined the movement, announcing a ban on promoting animal hair in all its editorial and advertising content globally.
Numerous studies indicate that synthetic fabrics-polyester, acrylic or nylon-are not biodegradable, taking hundreds of years to decompose. Moreover, they release microplastics with each use and wash. A recent 40-page report by the Dutch NGO Changing Markets casts doubt on the benefits of recycled polyester, finding it releases 54.8% more microplastics than its virgin version. With synthetics accounting for over 69% of textile production,the fashion industry is a major consumer of fossil fuels.
“Sometimes, as the saying goes, the cure is worse than the disease,” says Julio Urralde, fashion coordinator at IED Madrid. “We are obsessed with constantly looking for substitutions…and the only thing we get are ‘lead life preservers’.”
Urralde points to the term ‘vegan leather’ as one more tool for greenwashing, manipulating consumers into believing they are contributing to a positive cause without full transparency.The system, he argues, benefits from making individuals feel they are part of a social contribution.
This has fueled the growth of upcycling and the vintage market. “As consumers increasingly seek both affordability and sustainability, second-hand and vintage clothing is presented as an option by extending the life of existing pieces and reducing the demand for new production,” explains Voyer.
Urralde agrees, emphasizing that a key pillar of sustainable consumption is avoiding new waste. “Hence the scope for promoting the consumption of second-hand garments,with which you’re not pushing their new production and you have prevented that garment from becoming waste.”
The recycling formula is being explored by brands like Fendi and Miu Miu. Companies such as Iacopa,founded in Rome in 2024,exclusively utilize vintage skins,rescuing,dismantling,and reconstructing existing pieces. “No animals are harmed nor are plastic derivatives used,” they state, highlighting the value of the process itself.
Skin issue
Adolfo Dominguez’s decision to move away from synthetics and return to the use of animal leather – in collaboration with the Leather Working Group for environmental auditing and traceability – is a significant shift. The brand stated on LinkedIn: “We believe that sustainability is also about making brave decisions. Compared to materials derived from petroleum, we are committed to a natural, durable material with the ability to gain character over time.”
Stella McCartney Leads the Charge in Vegan Leather Innovation
Stella McCartney continues to be a pioneering force in sustainable fashion, consistently pushing boundaries with innovative materials and ethical practices. The brand’s latest collections showcase a significant focus on vegan leathers, moving beyond traditional synthetics to explore cutting-edge alternatives like Mirum and YATAY M.This commitment reflects a broader industry conversation about the complexities of material choices and the pursuit of truly cruelty-free and environmentally responsible fashion.
pioneering Plastic-Free Vegan Leather: Mirum and YATAY M
Last year, Stella McCartney introduced Mirum,a groundbreaking vegan leather entirely free of plastic. This fall-winter collection builds on this commitment, with 96% of materials deemed “conscious” and 100% cruelty-free, according to the brand. A key highlight is the introduction of YATAY M, a vegan material designed as an alternative to exotic leathers like python and ostrich.
YATAY M is created using fungal mycelium – the root structure of mushrooms – combined with recycled materials. Unlike many synthetic leathers, YATAY M can be printed and finished to resemble traditional leather without relying on animal processing.This offers designers a versatile and ethical option for creating luxurious textures and designs. YATAY focuses on bio-based materials and circularity, aligning with McCartney’s overall sustainability goals.
Beyond leather: Corn-Based Hair Alternatives and the Pursuit of Transparency
McCartney’s exploration of sustainable materials extends beyond leather alternatives. For years, the brand has been developing hair alternatives made from corn. Acknowledging the challenges inherent in even these alternatives, McCartney stated that the brand has paused the use of certain synthetic hair types due to concerns about chemical content and overall sustainability. However, she emphasizes that even imperfect vegan options are preferable to using real animal hair.
“Fake hair isn’t perfect, but the thing is, you have to have an open and honest conversation about it,” McCartney explained, highlighting the importance of transparency and continuous improvement in material sourcing.This candid approach underscores the complexities of finding truly sustainable solutions.
The Ongoing Debate: Balancing Priorities in Sustainable Fashion
The search for sustainable materials isn’t a simple equation with a single “right” answer. Design considerations, industry limitations, ethical values, and technical feasibility all play a role in material selection. The debate surrounding materials like vegan leather and faux fur is ongoing, with each option presenting its own set of trade-offs.
What remains clear is that both animal-derived and plant-based materials are central to the fashion conversation. the industry is increasingly focused on finding innovative solutions that minimize environmental impact and prioritize animal welfare.
Stella McCartney’s continued investment in research and development, coupled with her commitment to transparency, positions her as a leader in this evolving landscape. As technology advances and consumer demand for sustainable options grows, we can expect to see even more innovative materials emerge, shaping the future of fashion.
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