Sober Sommelier: Jo Radford on Breaking Stigmas and Finding Value in Wine
If you’ve ever considered a career change, the story of Jo Radford, sommelier at the Michelin-starred restaurant Timberyard in Edinburgh, offers a compelling look into a unique profession. Radford’s journey highlights a shift in the hospitality industry towards work-life balance and a growing openness about sobriety, even within the world of wine.
From Psychology to Pinot Noir
Radford’s path to becoming a sommelier wasn’t direct. Initially studying Psychology at Glasgow University, with a focus on criminal psychology, he initially resisted following his parents’ footsteps in the restaurant business. A two-year stint in Australia sparked an interest in fine service and quality produce. Upon returning to Scotland, he joined his family in opening Timberyard in 2012.1
Front of House and a Deep Wine Cellar
At Timberyard, Radford primarily manages the front-of-house operations, including team management and the drinks program. The restaurant has turn into known for its commitment to wines made with respect for the land and grape, boasting one of the deepest wine cellars in the UK.1 Radford emphasizes the importance of strong supplier relationships and empowering staff to share the stories behind the wines with guests.
Sobriety in the Wine World
Radford has been sober for over six years and openly discusses his experience to challenge the stigma surrounding alcohol abuse within the drinks industry. He demonstrates that a refined palate and expertise in wine are achievable without consuming alcohol, relying on tasting and spitting techniques. He notes that while other sober sommeliers exist, they are often less visible.1
The Evolving Hospitality Landscape
Radford observes a positive shift in the hospitality industry towards improved work-life balance. Historically, restaurant and bar staff faced long hours and demanding schedules. Yet, in recent years, a move towards more standard 40-45 hour work weeks has become increasingly common.1
Finding Value and Pairing Wine with Food
When it comes to wine purchasing, Radford suggests that spending more often yields better value, as markups tend to be higher on more commonly recognized bottles. He also advises pairing wines with foods from the same region, believing this often creates harmonious combinations.1
Navigating a Wine List and Understanding Markups
Radford offers three tips for navigating a wine list: engage with staff for guidance, have a budget in mind, and be open to exploring unfamiliar options. He acknowledges that restaurants apply markups to wines, but emphasizes that overhead costs – including storage, list maintenance, and service – justify these prices.1
The Radford Family Legacy
The Radford family has been a fixture in the Edinburgh dining scene for around 30 years, previously operating restaurants The Atrium and Blue before launching Timberyard in 2012.2 In 2023, Timberyard was awarded a Michelin star.2 The family has since opened a second venture, Montrose House, a wine bar and restaurant in Edinburgh’s Abbeyhill area, led in partnership with Timberyard head chef James Murray.4
The Endless Pursuit of Wine Knowledge
Radford acknowledges the continuous learning required in the wine industry, noting that mastering the craft is an ongoing process due to evolving vintages, producers, and climatic conditions.1