Salted fish, and salted hake in particular, reminds me of holidays. It’s vrey popular in southern Europe, where there are hundreds of recipes to choose from. The salting draws out some of the water and improves the fish’s flavor and texture, and it’s a method that pre-dates refrigeration, when salt was used to preserve food. Esqueixada is a Catalan salad of sorts that’s fresh, cooling and utterly delicious. The fried hake, meanwhile, is a little heavier, but addictive and perfect for sharing with a cold aperitif. Both are regulars on our summer menu, and we frequently enough flip between the two.
Esqueixada (pictured top)
Prep 15 min
Cure 30 min
Chill 2 hr+
Cook 15 min
serves 4
For the salted hake
2 thick hake fillets (about 200g each), pin-boned
50g coarse sea salt
For the esqueixada
2 salted hake fillets (see above and method)
2 very ripe large tomatoes, coarsely grated to a pulp and skins discarded
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra to finish
2 tsp top-quality white-wine vinegar
1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp black olives, pitted
1 tbsp salted capers, well rinsed
2 small salad onions, tropea ideally, though spring onion whites will do, peeled if need be, trimmed and finely sliced
To make the salted hake, lay the fish in a dish or tray large enough to hold the fillets side by side without overlapping.Sprinkle evenly with the salt, turn to coat on all sides, then cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Wash the salt off the fish,pat dry on kitchen paper and return to the fridge to chill and firm up for at least two hours,and ideally overnight.
Bring a large pan of salted water to a gentle simmer, then drop in the salted hake fillets, making sure they are submerged. Take the pan off the heat and leave the fish to poach in the residual heat for six to eight minutes, until the hake turns opaque and flakes easily. Transfer the fish to a plate and leave to cool at room temperature.Gently flake the hake into a large bowl and add the tomato pulp, olive oil, vinegar, parsley and a small pinch of salt. Fold gently, taking care not to break up the natural flakes of the fish, then taste and, if need be, adjust with more salt or vinegar. Add the olives, capers and salad onions, give everything another gentle fold, and finish with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Serve instantly, or chill for up to a few hours to allow the flavours to meld.
Worth a look