When Should You Start Using Retinoids?

Retinoids are a cornerstone of effective skincare, widely recognized for their ability to address both the signs of aging, and acne. Despite their increasing popularity, questions remain about which type of retinoid is best and when to incorporate them into your routine. Dermatologists weigh in on the optimal timing and considerations for starting retinoid apply.

When to Begin Retinoid Use

While individual skin needs vary, dermatologists generally recommend starting retinoid use in your 20s. “Late 20s is the perfect time to start!” says Houston dermatologist Jennifer Segal, MD. Miami dermatologist Dr. Deborah Longwill notes that collagen production typically begins to decline in the mid-to-late 20s, making this an ideal time to introduce a retinoid. “Retinol is one of the most effective topical ingredients we know of when it comes to anti-aging,” says Recent York dermatologist Jody A. Levine, MD. “I typically recommend starting before those changes become more noticeable. While we can’t prevent signs of aging entirely, introducing retinol early can help gradual the development of fine lines and wrinkles and make them easier to manage down the line. I find that the best age to start is typically around 25 to 30, depending on a patient’s individual skin needs and concerns.”

However, there are exceptions. Some individuals may begin using a retinoid earlier than their 20s, particularly for acne treatment. Many teenagers are prescribed retinoids and continue their use for ongoing benefits. Conversely, retinol isn’t suitable for everyone, and alternative options like peptide creams are available for those who don’t benefit from retinoids.

Skin Concerns That Signal It’s Time to Start

“Early signs of aging, such as fine lines, uneven texture, acne or pigmentation, are good indicators,” says Dr. Longwill. Retinoids work by accelerating cell turnover and stimulating collagen production, making them beneficial for a range of skin concerns. Dr. Levine adds that dullness and sun damage are also common signs that skin may benefit from a retinoid.

Prescription vs. Over-the-Counter Retinoids

The term “retinoid” encompasses a family of ingredients used to treat and prevent skin concerns. This includes prescription retinoids like tretinoin and tazarotene, as well as over-the-counter (OTC) options such as adapalene (now available OTC) and weaker alternatives like retinaldehyde and other retinols. Dr. Longwill recommends a prescription retinoid for persistent acne, significant sun damage, or more aggressive anti-aging results. Prescription retinoids can be up to 20 times more powerful than OTC options when used correctly.

If you have persistent acne, significant sun damage, or desire more aggressive anti-aging results, consider a prescription retinol. It’s significant to note that retinoids can cause irritation, especially for beginners or those with sensitive or dry skin. Dr. Levine suggests starting with a low-dose prescription retinoid or a gentle OTC option to allow the skin to adjust. For stubborn acne, deeper wrinkles, or lack of results with OTC products, a prescription retinoid with dermatologist guidance is recommended.

Tips for Beginners

“I typically recommend starting with a low-concentration, gentle formula and using it on a spaced-out schedule to allow the skin to adjust, followed by a moisturizer,” says Dr. Levine. Dr. Longwill agrees, recommending starting with a low-strength formula—around 0.25 percent to 0.5 percent—and gradually increasing as tolerated. Jennifer Segal, MD, favors gentler retinoid formulas like Differin 0.1 Adapalene Gel and Avene Retrinal Intensive Multi-Corrective Cream. The right formula depends on individual skin type and concerns, so consulting a dermatologist is best.