Once the meat of kings and chieftains – medieval and renaissance literature is peppered with references to the fine straps and haunches of deer enjoyed by the aristocracy in Ireland – wild venison has, to date, failed to capture the modern irish creativity.
But that could all change.
Growth in the country’s deer population means a plentiful supply, and a new drive to see wild venison as a sustainable and healthy option, and an alternative to intensely produced meat, is gaining ground. The recent spate of bird flu outbreaks may also see some consumers seeking turkey alternatives this Christmas.Already,a number of supermarket chains – most notably the German discounters Aldi and Lidl – are offering Irish wild venison steak and fresh venison roasting joints as part of their festive menus.
More restaurants, too, seem to be offering local venison this season, particularly in Munster.
Kerry chef Paul Treyvaud, based in Killarney, describes wild Irish venison as “a stunning piece of meat”.
He has served venison on his Christmas menu for more than two decades and will have it again this year at Treyvaud’s in Killarney. But he acknowledges a reluctance among Irish people to cook venison.
“people are afraid of it. It is not available in the local butchers and many of the local supermarkets,” he says.
Though, the chef believes that “more and more, Irish people should be cooking it.”
For people new to venison, his advice is simple – “You cook it exactly the same as steak.”
The backstrap or sirloin of venison is cooked exactly the same as beef sirloin – sealed in a red hot pan and served medium. The haunch is like the back leg of lamb. It does more work than the strap, he says, and is thus more muscley, but with a little bit of care it comes up beautifully too.
“It is incredibly tender meat,” said Paul. “The flavour of Irish venison is second to none.”
Treyvaud’s wild Irish venison is sourced through registered suppliers. And Paul stresses that when we speak of Irish venison it is indeed “the non-indigenous” deer – sika introduced in the 19th century and fallow brought in by the Normans,for hunting and eating – not the native Killarney Reds.
The irish Deer Society, established in 1968 and concerned with the welfare of wild deer, also believes venison is a sustainable and indeed ethical choice.
“Venison is a protein source that’s not onyl rich in nutrients but also has a significantly lower environmental footprint compared to conventional livestock. Choosing venison is more than a culinary decision – it’s a step toward a more sustainable, ethical, and environmentally responsible food system,” the society said.It is indeed also “exceptionally healthy” – leaner than beef, high in protein, packed with essential nutrients such as iron, zinc, and B vitamins, and is low fat.
Sika deer, the source of wild venison for eating, along with fallow. Picture: Críostóir Grayson/Irish Deer Commission
When hunted ethically and locally, deer can be harvested with minimal stress and encourages a local and seasonal food system.
But changing consumers’ attitudes towards venison remains a big challenge.
Documents released under the Freedom of Facts Act by the Irish Deer Management Strategy group, set up by the Government to develop a national strategy for deer, said the big barrier is attitude.
“Irish people don’t eat venison – it’s seen as expensive, elite meat, tough to cook and very strong tasting,” is one of the conclusions of the management group.Hunters, game handlers, Bord