The Evolution of the Over-the-Cuff Watch Trend

Wearing a wristwatch over a shirt cuff is a bold sartorial statement most famously associated with the late Fiat magnate Giovanni “Gianni” Agnelli. While often considered a risky fashion choice that can easily veer into the absurd, the look has recently returned to the spotlight. Actor Josh O’Connor sparked renewed interest in the style at the premiere of Disclosure Day, where he wore a yellow-gold Cartier Tank Américaine over his sleeve. This styling move requires significant confidence and serves as a deliberate rejection of standard menswear conventions.

Why Does the Over-the-Cuff Look Persist?

The practice of wearing a watch over a cuff is rooted in the concept of sprezzatura—an Italian term describing a studied carelessness or an effortless, natural style. Gianni Agnelli, the legendary head of Fiat, popularized the look, which some historians and style experts suggest he adopted partly out of impatience or a desire to check the time without unbuttoning his shirt. When executed correctly, the look projects a louche, anti-perfectionist confidence that stands in stark contrast to the rigid norms of traditional business attire.

The Shift Toward Shaped Dress Watches

Celebrity watch culture has undergone a significant transformation over the last decade. While the market was previously dominated by steel sports watches—such as the Rolex Daytona or the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak—collector interest has shifted toward shaped dress watches with deep design pedigrees. Cartier has emerged as a primary beneficiary of this trend, currently standing as the second-largest watchmaker in the world by revenue.

Josh O’Connor’s choice of the Tank Américaine reflects this broader movement toward restraint and sharp design. Introduced in 1989 as a curved, elongated reinterpretation of the classic Tank Cintrée, the Américaine occupies a unique space in the Cartier catalog. It is more dramatic than the standard Tank Louis Cartier but maintains a level of elegance that has helped it gain traction alongside other iconic Cartier models like the Crash, Baignoire, and Tortue.

Common Questions About Watch Styling

• Is wearing a watch over the cuff considered formal? No, it is generally viewed as a rakish, informal, or “anti-perfectionist” styling choice rather than a formal convention.
• Why are shaped watches currently popular? Collector taste has moved away from aggressive, gemstone-heavy flex pieces toward watches that emphasize heritage, unique geometry, and subtle luxury.
• What makes the Cartier Tank Américaine distinct? It features stretched Art Deco proportions and a curved case, offering a middle ground between the standard Tank and the elongated Cintrée.

Key Takeaways

• Historical Context: The over-the-cuff style is synonymous with Gianni Agnelli, who used the move to signal a relaxed, authoritative approach to fashion.
• Modern Adoption: Contemporary figures like Josh O’Connor are reviving the look, pairing it with classic, design-forward timepieces rather than modern sports watches.
• Market Trends: There is a documented surge in interest regarding shaped dress watches, with Cartier leading the market shift toward these design-focused, non-traditional shapes.

As collectors continue to prioritize design pedigree over hype, the prominence of shaped dress watches is likely to grow. Whether the over-the-cuff trend remains a niche styling choice or gains wider acceptance, it serves as a reminder that great personal style often relies on the confidence to break established rules.