Costume designer Courtney Wheeler earned a 2024 Emmy nomination for her work on the FX series The Bear, a show lauded for its hyper-realistic portrayal of Chicago’s culinary industry. Wheeler’s approach to the wardrobe focuses on utilitarian authenticity, prioritizing industry-standard staples like white t-shirts and functional outerwear to define the characters’ professional identities.
How The Bear Achieved Its Authentic Look
The costume design for The Bear centers on the reality of professional kitchen environments. According to an interview with Variety, Wheeler sourced garments that could withstand the high-pressure, physical demands of a restaurant setting. She avoided overly stylized fashion in favor of pieces that felt lived-in and earned.
Wheeler utilized specific brands to maintain this grounded aesthetic. The iconic white t-shirts worn by Carmy Berzatto, played by Jeremy Allen White, became a viral sensation for their perfect fit and clean silhouette. Wheeler confirmed that she experimented with various high-end and accessible brands to find the exact drape required for the character’s intense, focused personality.
Why Utilitarian Fashion Resonated With Audiences
The show’s wardrobe choices represent a departure from traditional television costuming. Rather than using clothes to signal wealth or status, Wheeler used them to signal competence. By outfitting the staff at "The Beef" and later "The Bear" in recognizable, durable workwear, the production team fostered a sense of realism that resonated with viewers.
This focus on "normcore" and functional apparel has influenced broader fashion trends. The viral nature of the show’s jackets—specifically the chore coats and chef-inspired outerwear—demonstrates how audiences are increasingly drawn to garments that prioritize utility. Wheeler noted that the goal was never to create a "look" for the sake of trends, but to ensure that every piece of clothing told the story of a character who spends 14 hours a day on their feet.
Key Takeaways for Costume Design
- Prioritizing Function: Wheeler’s design philosophy emphasizes that in a professional kitchen, clothing is a tool. This requires fabrics that are breathable, durable, and easy to clean.
- Character Consistency: The wardrobe remains static in its quality, reflecting the characters’ limited time and interest in fashion outside of their craft.
- Industry Recognition: Wheeler’s nomination highlights the growing appreciation for costume designers who master the art of "invisible" design—clothing that feels so natural it appears as if the character chose it themselves.
Future Trends in TV Wardrobe
The success of The Bear suggests a shift in how television portrays professional environments. As viewers lean into "quiet luxury" and functional minimalism, costume designers are increasingly tasked with finding the balance between aesthetic appeal and extreme realism. Wheeler’s work establishes a precedent for future productions to focus on the narrative power of everyday garments, proving that a well-fitted white tee can carry as much storytelling weight as a high-fashion gown.
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