Sydney Scientist Turns Roadside Apples into Unique Cider, Exploring Genetics and Fermentation

A Sydney-based scientist is blending a passion for foraging with scientific inquiry, transforming overlooked roadside apples into a distinctive cider. Lucien Alperstein, a PhD candidate at the University of New South Wales (UNSW), has spent over a decade collecting feral apples from trees growing along country roads in New South Wales and South Australia.

Alperstein’s journey began with a simple curiosity sparked by rumors of wild fruit trees. “Those wild apples were destined for drinking rather than eating,” they explained, recalling the first harvest that filled the boot of their parents’ car.¹

From Microbiology to Fermentation

Currently researching probiotics for aquaculture at UNSW, Alperstein’s academic background is rooted in microbial ecology. Their PhD project focuses on understanding the role of seaweed microbiomes and their influence on the growth and metabolite production of Asparagopsis armata, a red seaweed known for its potential to reduce methane emissions from livestock.¹ However, a long-standing interest in fermentation initially drew them back to university to study microbiology.¹

The Diversity of Roadside Fruit

Alperstein’s foraging expeditions have revealed a remarkable diversity of roadside fruit trees. Along a single kilometer stretch, they can encounter up to 30 different trees – plums, peaches, nectarines, pears, crabapples, quinces, and numerous apple varieties.⁴ This variability stems from the chaotic nature of seed dispersal, whether by animals or discarded cores.¹

“Some of them are beautiful, like really rich, very aromatic, sweet, [and] juicy,” Alperstein noted, while others are small, tart, and high in tannins.⁴ They’ve even discovered apples with dark red skin and pink flesh, finding that these more unusual varieties often lend themselves well to cider making.⁴

From Backyard Batches to Collaboration

Over the past decade, Alperstein has scaled up their cider production, moving from backyard batches to a collaboration with Marrickville brewery Wildflower on the Road Cider project.¹ While they’ve sold bottles and cases to friends, family, and others, the supply remains unreliable due to the cyclical fruiting patterns of wild trees.¹

The Cider-Making Process

The cider-making process relies on traditional methods. Apples are crushed, pressed for juice, and then wild fermented using the natural yeasts present on the fruit.¹ Alperstein sometimes incorporates pears or sorbus fruits to add complexity to the flavor profile.¹ The resulting cider has a drier mouthfeel compared to commercially produced sweet ciders.¹

Mapping and Conservation Concerns

Alperstein is not the only one foraging for roadside fruit, encountering others with similar interests.¹ While some map these trees, others are hesitant to publicize locations for fear of over-harvesting or removal, as feral fruit trees can sometimes be considered weeds and subject to removal under local council policies.¹

Despite uncertainties about the future of the project, Alperstein’s passion for roadside apple picking will continue to guide their travels.¹