Ireland’s Culinary Crisis: Restaurants Close at Alarming Rate
Ireland’s vibrant restaurant scene is facing a crisis, with over 600 eateries shutting down in the past year. This surge in closures is causing alarm bells to ring, with many fearing for the future of the country’s dining experience and economic landscape.
A Growing List of Losses
From beloved Dublin establishments like Blazing Salads, Dillingers, Assassination Custard, and Brasserie Sixty Six, to cherished spots like Church Lane in Dublin, Sage in County Cork, and Barnacles in Galway, the list of closures continues to grow. This isn’t just a Dublin phenomenon; the crisis is felt nationwide, affecting even renowned culinary hubs like Ballymaloe in County Cork.
Celebrity chef Dylan McGrath’s Brasserie Sixty Six in Dublin has closed. Photograph: Lisa O’Carroll
A Vicious Cycle of Challenges
Blazing Salads, a pioneering vegetarian and vegan establishment that had stood the test of time for 37 years, blamed a perfect storm of factors for its closure. Inflation, a rise in VAT, and the lingering impact of remote working all contributed to an unsustainable environment. These challenges are echoed throughout the industry.
The Voice of Frustration
The Restaurant Association of Ireland (RAI) has sounded the alarm, stating that an average of two restaurants, cafes, or food-led businesses are closing their doors every day. “It’s desperation, not just whingeing,” says Darina Allen, renowned chef and founder of the Ballymaloe cookery school. “All restaurants want is fair support, appreciation for what they are doing for Ireland Inc.”
Darina Allen protesting over the spate of restaurant closures. Photograph: Grainne Ni Aodha/PA
Seeking Solutions
Restaurants are calling for government intervention, demanding a reversal of the VAT hike from 9% to 13.5%, implemented last August amidst a cost-of-living crisis. While a €4,000 energy bill support was offered, the VAT increase was left untouched.
“This country is doing brilliantly. We are told we are riding on the crest of a wave, but it doesn’t feel like that at parish level,” Allen laments.